Fair criticism or another kicking?

“And then it is all let down by inconsistency in the food. This, I am told, is Manchester’s vice.” And so another London critic gives the city’s dining scene a kicking.
But are they right?
Having not yet been to Grado I don’t know whether the Observer’s Jay Rayner is right about Heathcote’s latest venture but he did seem to spend quite a lot of money trying it out.
Others have enjoyed the ham and the sardines and even a rave review of a vegetarian paella so I’ll reserve judgement for a later taste.
He is right about one thing though – it probably is just worth eating at Red Chilli instead.

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