Michael Winner, McDonalds and the point of critics

Seeing Michael Winner tucking into a Big Mac on Tonight was such a hilarious YouTube moment I felt sure I’d be able to re-live it and share with you this morning.
Alas no clip as yet so the power of the written word will have to suffice for now. The premise of the programme was to see if the fast food chain had changed its ways to succeed in managing to sell more of its wares than ever before.
Frankly, I couldn’t care less. Having never eaten a Big Mac in my middle-aged life, I’m certainly not going to start now.
What did prompt some interest from me was the idea of restaurant critics being asked to review a big chain such as McDs or KFC or whatever. Every now and then editor types get a whim to do these things “let’s go to where people actually eat” will be the cry.
( For AA Gill, the sinking feeling this induces must also be prompted by the idea that any restaurant worthy of reviewing could be found outside London, but that’s a different blog rant).
But while the credit crunch may be biting the high-end dining experience, there’s usually little for the critic to get his/her teeth into with processed fast-food precisely because every outlet is supposed the be the same.
It does raise a wider point though. What’s the point of food reviews anyway? Is it to offer a guide to places to go? If so, every Sunday newspaper in the country is getting it wrong because I’ve rarely eaten in a single place that’s reviewed or wish to. It’s the writing and the attitude which gives me the food for thought.
Still, it doesn’t stop the occassional effort to get down with the kids as this remarkable review of the KFC at Walsall from the Express and Star in Wolverhampton shows.
“Although the menu is mainly limited to battered chicken, battered chicken or battered chicken it is rather handy if you like battered chicken, which is true in my case.”
Truly insightful.

Advertisements

2 thoughts on “Michael Winner, McDonalds and the point of critics

  1. Ha ha, that review of KFC in the Express and Star is genius. I’m from that neck of the woods, so sometimes log on and laugh myself silly at the food reviews. Someone actually got paid to review Greggs in Walsall once! I couldn’t quite believe it. Says a lot about a county’s cuisine when the only place to critique is the local fast food joint.

    Like

  2. Ha ha, that review of KFC in the Express and Star is genius. I’m from that neck of the woods, so sometimes log on and laugh myself silly at the food reviews. Someone actually got paid to review Greggs in Walsall once! I couldn’t quite believe it. Says a lot about a county’s cuisine when the only place to critique is the local fast food joint.

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s